1 medium green (unripe) papaya, peeled, seeded, and thinly sliced (see note)
Juice of 1 large lime
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh cilantro
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon ground turmeric
3 to 4 fresh Thai, cayenne, or serrano chilies, slit open lengthwise
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon black mustard seed
1/4 teaspoon hing (asafetida)
In a medium bowl, combine the papaya, lime juice, cilantro, salt, sugar, turmeric, and chilies. Mix well. In a small skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat; add the mustard seed. When it begins to pop, cover the skillet. As soon as the seed finishes popping, add the hing and sizzle for 2 to 5 seconds. Pour the seed-oil mixture over the papaya and toss well to coat. Serve chilled or at room temperature.
Note: Choose a papaya that is green, firm, and unripe. Peel it with a potato peeler or a paring knife. The flesh will be light green in color (unlike the orange/red color when ripe). Slice the papaya lengthwise, and with a spoon scoop out and discard the pearl-like white seeds (which will turn a beautiful black color when ripe). Use the slicer blade attachment of a food processor to slice the papaya thin; a box grater's slicer surface will also suffice.