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The Savvy Traveller - A Column By Tanuja Sud

Tanuja Sud
10/05/2023

San Miguel de Allende: A Gem of a City in the Heart Of Central Mexico

After years of yearning to visit San Miguel de Allende, I finally fulfilled my wish last January when I planned a family getaway to Mexico City. Our three kids would be going back to Tucson, Boston, and NYC after spending a week in CDMX with us, but my husband and I had a few more days to spare. When I realized San Miguel was only a four hour drive from Mexico City, I added it to my itinerary. Since there is so much to see and do in San Miguel, plan on spending at least four or five days there for a first-time trip. It’s also easy to plan day trips to Guanajuato (a 1.5-hour drive) and Grutas de Tolantongo hot springs (a 3.5-hour drive).

If you haven’t heard of San Miguel de Allende, here’s a brief overview: San Miguel de Allende is a charming colonial city in the central Mexican state of Guanajuato. With pastel colored colonial buildings, leafy green parks lining cobblestoned streets, and church bells tolling, the city has a distinct European flair. Culturally rich with a trove of historical sites, the entire old town was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008.

San Miguel de Allende is a popular tourist destination for both Mexicans and foreigners alike. It has been featured on Conde Nast Traveller Magazine’s “best city in the world” list for 2 years in a row!

If you are wary of traveling due to safety concerns, let me assure you, San Miguel is one of the safest cities you’ll ever walk around. We never felt uncomfortable or afraid, whether we were out late at night, taking taxis or Uber or traveling by bus. Of course, you must take the same safety precautions you would in any other city, for example, avoiding carrying too much cash on your person and keeping valuables in a safe place.

Here are just a few reasons why I fell in love with San Miguel de Allende:

  1. The architecture: The city's colonial architecture is simply stunning. The colorful buildings, cobblestone streets, and wrought-iron balconies are a feast for the eyes.
  2. The food: San Miguel de Allende has a thriving culinary scene, with restaurants serving everything from traditional Mexican cuisine to international fare. You can’t leave without trying some of the local specialties, such as mole and pozole.
  3. The culture: San Miguel de Allende is a vibrant cultural hub, with art galleries, museums, and theaters showcasing the work of local and international artists. There are also a number of festivals held throughout the year, including the Festival Internacional Cervantino, a major arts festival that takes place every October.
  4. The people: The people of San Miguel de Allende are warm and welcoming. I found the locals to be friendly and helpful. It would have been helpful if I spoke some Spanish beyond the basics, because many of the locals I met in smaller towns and rural areas do not speak fluent English.

Must See And Do In San Miguel de Allende For First Time Visitors

Visit the Parroquia de San Miguel Arcángel

This iconic pink church is one of the most recognizable landmarks in San Miguel de Allende. It was built in the 17th and 18th centuries and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is undoubtedly the emblem of San Miguel. 

People-watch at Jardín Allende

This lively central plaza is a great place to people-watch and soak up the atmosphere of the city. It is also surrounded by a number of restaurants, cafes, and shops. The square is bustling with activity in the evenings and at the weekend. Depending on when you find yourself in El Jardín, you may witness a political rally or have the chance to listen in on a live concert. We happened to witness a marriage proposal and let me tell you, it was the most unique proposal I’ve seen!

Plaza Civica and Oratorio De San Felipe Neri

Take a break at the grand civic square also known as Plaza de la Soledad. A great place to sit back and watch locals going about their business.

The multi-towered domed church, located right next to the plaza dates back from the 18th century. What draws visitors inside the church are thirty three oil paintings showing scenes from the life of Saint Felipe Neri, the 16th century Florentine who founded the Oratorio Catholic order. Entry to the church is free.

See The Templo San Francisco

The eye-catching Templo de San Francisco is a neoclassical church that features carved stone figures and a churrigueresque facade. Part of the Fransiscan monastery complex, it was built in the early 18th century. Free entry.

Centro Cultural Ignacio Ramírez “El Nigromante”

This converted convent now houses an institute for studying dance, music, printing, and other arts. Rotating exhibits are on display and there is an events bulletin board near the entrance. Don’t miss the Diego Rivera replica that takes up the back wall of the north stairwell or the unfinished mural by David Alfaro Siqueiros.

Visit The Mercado Ignacio Ramirez

A vibrant mish-mash of stalls selling everything from vegetables to clothes, this mercado is a great place to get a sense of local life and taste regional dishes. The market is named after Ignacio Ramirez, the Mexican president who declared San Miguel the country’s first official Pueblo Magico (magical town) in 2008.

Hike up to El Mirador Viewpoint

For a stunning view of the city, head to El Mirador, a steep fifteen to twenty minute walk from the Jardin Allende. You can also take a trolley (tickets are available at the main square) or taxi if climbing a steep hill isn’t your thing! We did just that and after taking in the sunset, we took a leisurely downhill walk back to the plaza.

Take a Walking Tour

One of the best ways to experience a city and learn about its history is walking around with a local.

Here are a few that are highly recommended:

https://historicalwalkingtour.org/

https://www.viator.com/tours/San-Miguel-de-Allende/Historical-and-Cultural-Walki ng-Tour-of-San-Miguel-de-Allende/d26115-372466P1

Visit the Biblioteca de San Miguel de Allende

Every traveler to the city insists you must visit this photogenic library—If only I had an extra day in SMA, I’d have loved to see it. I take this as an excuse to plan another trip to what’s become one of my favorite cities in the world!

Visit The Mask Museum

A quirky must do in SMA is to visit the mask museum, located at the charming bed & breakfast, Casa de las Cuesta. Bill LeVasseur, the owner and curator, has spent more than 25 years acquiring an extraordinary collection of over 500 Mexican ceremonial masks that give a unique glimpse into traditional culture in the heart of colonial Mexico. Visit is by appointment only and costs 100 Mexican Pesos for adults ($5.80 USD) Free for children, students and school groups. It was the highlight of our trip and we came home with knowledge about Mexico’s remote indigenous communities and their traditions.

https://www.maskmuseumsma.com/index.html

Eat Your Way Around The City

From street food, to fine dining and everything in between, San Miguel is a foodie haven. There is not only an abundance of delicious local cuisine, but also numerous international and fusion restaurants and cafes throughout the city. Near the Jardin Allende, you’ll find plenty of wonderful options.

We especially loved Cafe Umarán and stopped here a few times for the most delicious pastries and coffee.

I also highly recommend Lavanda Cafe de Especialidad. Good food, great vibe.

Also, don’t forget to eat churros at the legendary San Agustin Chocolates & Churros.

San Miguel has some pretty decent rooftop restaurants offering stunning views of the city. Luna Rooftop Tapas Bar at the luxurious and elegant Rosewood Hotel San Miguel is one them.

The food, served tapas style, is great, but the real treat is their drink menu.

Some other wonderful options: Zuma, Trazo 1810, Fatima 7, Terraza La Vista and Rooftop Mara.

Here are some more highly rated restaurants:

  • The Restaurant: This chic restaurant offers fusion cooking in a beautiful 18th century mansion.
  • La Doña de San Miguel: For traditional Mexican cuisine, head to this highly rated restaurant.
  • Casa Nostra: If you crave Italian after binging on too much Mexican food, this is the place.
  • Los Migros: This casual restaurant serves delicious Mexican street food.
  • Spice Market: Trip Advisor’s Travelers’ Choice Winner, Spice Market serves food inspired by Southeast Asia. Located in the beautiful new Live Aqua Urban resort.

Other Fun Things To Do In San Miguel de Allende:

Visit Local Wineries

There are numerous wineries just around 30 minutes – 1 hour from the city. Hire a driver, rent a car, or join a tour and check out the vineyards near San Miguel de Allende.

Relax in the Thermal Baths

There are several thermal baths near the town where you can go for a nice soak. The most popular choices are Escondido Place and La Gruta, both of which are easily combined with a trip to the Sanctuary of Atotonilco. Unfortunately, I didn’t have the time to soak in my tired bones in a thermal bath but the host of our Airbnb told us it’s a favorite weekend activity for locals and visitors.

Explore the Sanctuary of Atotonilco

Just a 30-minute drive from the center, you’ll find the incredible Sanctuary of Atotonilco. This historic church complex is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and is famous for its Mexican Baroque murals. It has been dubbed the “Sistine Chapel of Mexico,” and deservedly so! The small, colorful town itself has a few buildings and food stalls, but there’s not much of interest here for tourists except the Sanctuary. Taxis and Uber are safe and easily available from San Miguel, and a round trip to the sanctuary costs around $15 USD.

Visit The Jardín Botánico El Charco del Ingenio

At this more than 170-acre botanical garden set in an ecological preserve, you’ll have the chance to spot wildlife, walk along greenery-lined trails and learn about various species of local cacti. Located just a mile northeast of central San Miguel, El Charco del Ingenio can be reached on foot (it’s about a 30-minute walk from the municipal market) or by taxi.

Visit Fabrica La Aurora

For nearly 100 years, Fabrica La Aurora was a textile mill in the north of San Miguel de Allende. These days, it’s a bustling collection of shops, galleries, and cafes that many refer to as a paradise for art lovers. You can shop for everything from home furnishings, jewelry, and antiques, while watching artists at work in their studios! Cafe de la Aurora & Food Factory offer food & drinks after you’re done browsing the many galleries and shops.

When to plan your trip: The Best Time to visit San Miguel De Allende

San Miguel is blessed with a pleasant spring-like climate all year round thanks to its location in the central highlands of Mexico. Average temperatures range in the mid 70 - mid 80 degrees Fahrenheit. November through April is the best time to visit, as there is less rainfall than the summer months. We visited in January, and though the mornings and evenings got cold, the daytime temperature was fabulous. March and April are the best months to visit if you want to see San Miguel in bloom!

How to get to San Miguel de Allende

The closest international airports to San Miguel de Allende are Queretaro (QRO - approx. 80 km away) and Guanajuato/Leon (BJX - approx. 90 km away). Both have direct flights from major southern US air hubs like Dallas, Atlanta, and Houston. From these airports, you can rent a car & drive, take an Uber, DIDI or direct shuttle bus from BJX to San Miguel.

Another common option is to fly to Mexico City (MEX) and take a taxi (very expensive), Uber or DIDI (cheaper option), or bus to San Miguel. The bus ride from Mexico City takes approximately 4 to 5 hours and departs from Central del Norte (north bus station) in Mexico City, arriving into Central de Autobuses in San Miguel de Allende. From here, you can catch a local bus, taxi, or even walk to the city center. This is the option we chose and had a very comfortable and safe ride to San Miguel.

There are two bus services that operate from Mexico city to SMA. ETN and Primera Plus are both good options.

Hotels For Every Budget

Centro Historico is the hub of San Miguel and is perfect for first time visitors. From museums to churches, shops, and restaurants, everything is within walking distance if you choose to stay here. There are plenty of options from luxurious & budget friendly hotels to short term rentals on Airbnb & VRBO. We booked a beautiful one bedroom house through Airbnb in the historic center, close to all the main attractions.
Here are a few hotel options you can book through Booking.com, Expedia Hotels, Hotels.com, or directly on their websites:

  • Hacienda El Santuario
  • Casa de Sierra Nevada, a Belmond Hotel, San Miguel de Allende
  • Rosewood San Miguel de Allende
  • Live Aqua San Miguel de Allende Urban Resort - Luxury
  • Casa Hoyos - Hotel Boutique
  • Hotel Matilda
  • NUMU Boutique Hotel
  • The Unbound Collection by Hyatt
  • Cantera 1910 Hotel Boutique
  • Casa Liza

So, is San Miguel de Allende Worth Visiting?

Absolutely! San Miguel is one of the most beautiful, magical, historical & culturally rich cities I’ve been to. Whether you’re looking for a relaxing getaway, a cultural adventure, or simply a place to enjoy delicious food and drinks, San Miguel is the perfect destination. It offers something for everyone, from history buffs and art lovers, to foodies and shoppers.

I hope this article has helped you to learn more about San Miguel de Allende and inspired you to plan your trip to this gem of a city.

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